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Via San Gregorio Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley Guide

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Christmas in Naples (Italy) is a special and unique time of the year. But there’s only one place where Christmas lasts forever. Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples is also known as “Christmas Alley”.
Let us show you the most picturesque street in Naples, through the eyes of us Neapolitans!

Nativity sets at Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples
Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples is also known as “Nativity Street”

There’s a place in Naples where it’s Christmas every day of the year.
Via San Gregorio Armeno is one of the oldest streets in Naples. Definitely worth a visit, especially if you follow our guide!

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When people visit Naples, the sunny seaside city in Southern Italy, there are a few stops that generally are almost automatically added to every itinerary.
A day trip to Pompeii, or even an Amalfi Coast road trip, if they really want to feel the vibe of our beautiful region.

Yet there’s an ancient part of Naples that not many tourists know about.
And those who have heard of Via San Gregorio Armeno, have no idea where is it or how to go there.
If travelers are already scared about the Old Town, they might skip it because they think Naples is a dangerous city.

The good news is that you can definitely add it to your itinerary even if you are spending only one night in our hometown.

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Via San Gregorio Armeno – What Is This Place?

Via San Gregorio Armeno, also known as “Naples Christmas Alley“, is one of the oldest streets in Naples.

While in the past it was home to a temple dedicated to the Roman Goddess Ceres, by the end of the 18th century it became popular due to the Nativity scenes.

Presepio“, the Italian name for “Nativity scene“, is a tradition we all love and cherish.

San Gregorio Armeno is the one street in Naples where our local artisans opened dozens of workshops. They hand make terracotta figurines, making sure they keep their doors open.
When tourists stop to watch the artisans at work, it is like complimenting them for what they are doing.

The curiosity not many know about is the fact that in modern times, our Nativity artisans have added… new figurines to our “presepio“.

You will in fact find ornaments and figurines resembling every popular face out there.
From celebs to politicians, to footballers and even an all time classic: Elvis!

Make sure you allocate at least 2-3 hours to visit Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples on your itinerary.
There’s a good chance you’ll spend even more time there, while buying Christmas gifts.

At least stay for lunch!
The oldest part of Naples is where you can find cheap but delicious street food and so many things to do.
Allow me show you!

Nativity street in Naples with vendors selling terracotta figurines
Christmas Alley in Naples can be pretty busy in December

10 Things To Do in Via San Gregorio Armeno

Visit Some Nativity Workshops

The San Gregorio Armeno Nativity workshops are (almost) always open.

As an unwritten rule, us Neapolitans know that the artisans generally start working at about 9:30 am.

The Christmas Alley workshops stay open until 8 pm, more or less. Yet at lunchtime it’s possible that they will be closed for a short lunch break.

You can just walk in every open door at Via San Gregorio Armeno.
If they are working they generally welcome visitors – for free.

Please be polite and do not touch anything.
Many of the items on display should be handled with the utmost care!

Go For A Christmas Shopping Spree

Footballers statuettes at Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples
Sacred and profane get confused a lot at Christmas Alley in Naples!

This narrow street in Naples is also famous for its shops.
While some travelers think they are “cute but kitch“, they’re still worth some of your time.

As you walk towards the artisan workshops at Christmas Alley, you will also find a lot of stores selling… wedding dresses.

The area surrounding Naples Cathedral (our “Duomo di Napoli“) is in fact historically famous for its seamstresses.

Many of the shops you see are tiny and family-owned. They make original wedding dresses from scratch for the Neapolitan brides-to-be.

Shopping for Italian souvenirs or Christmas presents in the area is a good idea.

Yet you can also just go for some inexpensive window shopping while you eat a delicious Pizza a Portafoglio!

Visit Museo Cappella Sansevero

Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples is within walking distance from the world-famous Museo Cappella Sansevero.

Being one of the gorgeous hidden gems in Naples people do not often get to see, I absolutely encourage you to go.

The Veiled Christ at Cappella Sansevero in Naples is one of the greatest sculptures of all time.
This impressive work of art is my favorite in Naples, and it dates back to 1753.

It is so realistic that people back then thought that the Prince of Sansevero was a powerful alchemist who turned people into stone!

Visiting the Museo Cappella Sansevero should take about 30 minutes, unless you decide to stay longer.
The museum is small but packed with gorgeous artworks!

Ceramic souvenirs from Naples
At Spaccanapoli you’ll also find lots of ceramic souvenirs from Naples

Stroll Through “Spaccanapoli”

The first person who used this nickname was the Italian writer Benedetto Croce.
Spaccanapoli” literally means “breaking through Naples” in Italian.

The Decumano Inferiore, one of the 3 main streets in Naples dating back to the Greek era, is now commonly known here as “Spaccanapoli“.
This is a street that actually divides Naples in two between North and South.

Spaccanapoli is full to the brim with historical buildings and gorgeous Churches you can visit.

Among the very best things you should visit there’s the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, San Domenico Maggiore and the Basilica di Santa Chiara.

They are all free to visit but you will need to cover your legs and shoulders.
Also in summer!

Drink a Real Neapolitan Coffee

Espresso in Naples is a form of art.

Us Neapolitans are quite opinionated when it comes to coffee. Our baristas have to make sure they always get us the very best cup of espresso. Every. Single. Time.

Make sure you stop by any of the pretty cafes in Naples for a “pausa caffè e sfogliatella” (coffee and sfogliatella break in Italian). You won’t regret it!

In Naples we drink coffee according to a specific ritual.
First a bit of water. Then if our barista hands us one, we eat a butter cookie or a bit of dark chocolate.
Then we finally drink our coffee.

Beware: in Naples the coffee cup is often scorching hot! We tend to believe that it enhances the scent and flavor of the espresso so pay attention not to get burned!

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Neapolitan taralli at Taralleria Napoletana (Naples)
Neapolitan taralli with a twist at Taralleria napoletana

Buy Neapolitan Taralli

One of the best things you can eat while walking through Via San Gregorio Armeno is Neapolitan Taralli.

While back in the day it was common to eat very big taralli while drinking a cold beer, now they have become smaller and… trendy.

Leopoldo Infante, one of the very best Neapolitan chefs out there, has been making taralli since 1940.
He has now opened a Taralleria Napoletana shop in Via San Biagio dei Librai.

His shop sells small taralli that you can eat while window shopping.
They’re cheap, crunchy and savory!

The best thing?
They make a great souvenir box that you can bring home!

Nile god statue at Piazzetta Nilo in Naples
Nile God statue at Piazzetta Nilo, Naples: here you can find lots of interesting Italian souvenirs

Take Pictures of the “Maradona Altar”

You absolutely can’t visit Naples without noticing how Diego Armando Maradona has become part of our culture.
The epic soccer player’s face is on murals and even tiny, homemade museums throughout the city.

Yet there’s one tiny cafe at Piazzetta Nilo, that has dedicated an “altar” to Maradona.
In a glass case they keep a hair that is supposed to belong to Diego!

Throughout Via San Gregorio Armeno you will find a lot of artisan shops keeping Maradona’s memorabilia as lucky charms.
There are framed newspapers, autographs or even old t-shirts of the S.S.C. Napoli.

Make sure you drop by the Bar Nilo and take a few pictures of the tiny altar.
It’s one of the unique things you’ll only ever find in Naples!

Inside of the Duomo in Naples
Make sure you visit the Duomo Cathedral in Naples!

Visit Naples Duomo

The Naples Cathedral, that we know as “Duomo di Napoli” is the very first thing you will see while walking towards Christmas Alley.

The majestic Roman Catholic Cathedral is the main church in Naples and the seat of the Archbishop in Naples.

You might have heard of this place because this cathedral houses a vial of the blood of San Gennaro (Saint Januarius). Three times a year it is brought out and it liquefies. In Italy we know of this phenomenon as the “Miracolo di San Gennaro“.

The Neapolitans believe that it’s a way for San Gennaro to protect the city.
Should the blood not liquefy, a disaster will befall Naples!

You can visit the main Duomo building for free.
Yet if you have enough time, I suggest you pay to enter the Cappella del Tesoro (Treasure Chapel), which is the place where they keep the San Gennaro treasure.
It’s impressive!

Shop for Books at Via San Biagio Dei Librai

After you’ve done all your Christmas shopping at Via San Gregorio Armeno, keep walking for a few minutes.
You’ll get to Via San Biagio dei Librai.

This unique place in Naples is famous because it’s a narrow street where they almost exclusively sell books.
Hence why the name “dei Librai“, which is the Italian word for “bookseller“.

Via San Biagio dei Librai is also very popular because here, in 1658, at number 131, the philosopher GianBattista Vico was born.

Street food vendor in Naples Italy
Street food in Naples is cheap, delicious and filling!

Stuff Your Face With The Best Street Food 

The good Neapolitan street food has to be cheap, delicious and filling.

While there are so many things you should eat in Naples, the area surrounding Via San Gregorio Armeno is where you’ll find the cheapest street food ever.

Pizza a Portafoglio, a traditional “to-go-pizza” that you can translate as “wallet pizza“, still costs like 2€ (a bit more than 2$).
It is served piping hot and dripping tomato sauce. Yum!

Make sure that you spend some time just picking delicious food and eat at Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Not only it will be cheaper, but it’s also a great way to discover the authentic Neapolitan cuisine!

Details of Nativity scenes at Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples
At San Gregorio Armeno you can buy Nativity scenes and terracotta figurines

How to get to Via San Gregorio Armeno

Naples is a pretty ancient city.
The historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, includes the Decumani, three roads built in the VI century b. C.
They are the Decumano superiore, the Decumano maggiore and the Decumano inferiore.

Via San Gregorio Armeno connects the Decumano maggiore (Via dei Tribunali) and the Decumano inferiore (Via San Biagio dei Librai).

If you are at Piazza Garibaldi, near the Central Station, use the Naples Art Metro to get to Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Use Linea 1. There are 3 metro stops within walking distance from the Nativity Scenes workshops.
Museo, Dante and Università.

Click to watch our walking itinerary for Via San Gregorio Armeno (Naples) on Youtube!

Do You Need a Car To Visit Naples?

As a Neapolitan, let me be super clear: by all means, nope!

Exploring Naples by foot or using public transport is super easy.
Getting a car means having to deal with a lot of traffic, lack of parking, fines and drivers who do not respect the rules.

Being a local, I tend to use the subway more than the buses.
I can get everywhere quickly, while buses are often delayed by huge traffic jams.

The easiest way to deal with public transport in Naples is by buying a daily ticket TIC Napoli Urbano Giornaliero.
It’s a ticket you can use for the whole day in Naples. It’ll cost you 4,50€ (about 5$).
In case you’re staying longer there’s a TIC Napoli Urbano Settimanale which is valid for 7 days, at 16€ (about 17$).

If you still prefer to rent a car, maybe to plan a few day trips from Naples, make sure you do so well in advance.
Renting online is safer and it will be way cheaper.
Click here to confront prices online.

Pulcinetta statuettes in Naples
Pulcinella is a Neapolitan character that originated in commedia dell’arte of the 17th century

What to Eat at Christmas Alley in Naples

In Naples we have a way to turn even the most elaborate Italian dishes into yummy street food.
This is particularly true in Via San Gregorio Armeno!

Remember to go there when you are hungry. With just a few Euros you will be able to buy the most traditional and delicious food, off the beaten path and away from the tourist traps.

Pizza a portafoglio in Naples
Pizza a portafoglio: queen of the street food scene in Naples

Pizza “a Portafoglio” (“Wallet” Pizza)

Us Neapolitans love it.
We consider it the ultimate street food in Naples.
The scent alone will make you super hungry!

Pizza a portafoglio is a smaller Pizza Margherita (tomatoes, basil, olive oil and mozzarella cheese) cooked in a wood-fired oven.

Once cooked the pizza maker bends it in the middle, then bends it again, just like you’d do with a wallet.

It’s an iconic street food in Naples that you can buy in Via San Gregorio Armeno and the Decumani area (also in other places of course, but here you will spend only 2€!).

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Neapolitan “cuoppo”

Cuoppo in Naples is a paper cone filled with delicious deep fried food.

There are several shops that sell them both in Via San Gregorio Armeno and the Decumani area.
The price changes according to what you want to buy.

There are cuoppi filled with deep fried pizza dough and Nutella, fish cuoppo (with deep fried shrimps and anchovies), or even just French fries with wurstel.

Neapolitan cuoppo fritto
Neapolitan cuoppo fritto is filled with deep fried goodies

Neapolitan Taralli

Taralli are a staple of the street food in Naples.

At Taralleria Napoletana, which I mentioned above, you can also find a lot of vegan options.

Neapolitan Taralli are savory cookies made with lard, almonds and ground pepper.
The “modern” ones even add Neapolitan friarielli or other goodies.

Taralli are very cheap snacks you can eat easily while walking.

Cuzzetiello con Ragù

If you are very hungry and you want to taste a piece of the traditional Neapolitan cuisine, you can stop at Tandem d’Asporto in Via Mezzocannone 75.
This shop is entirely dedicated to the tomato sauce that is the symbol of Naples in the world: ragù.

They make something that generations of grandmothers and mothers here have prepared for their grandkids or children. Bread with ragù, or, as we say it in Naples “Cuzzetiello con ragù”.

It’s the bottom end of a Neapolitan loaf of bread.
We remove the soft inside and we fill it with warm ragù and sometimes with homemade polpette (meatballs).

With only 5€ (about 6$) you can eat this delicious street food. Beware: it’s hot and filling!

Tandem owns several restaurants and to go shops in Naples, and all of them are specialized in dishes with ragù.
At Tandem d’Asporto you will thus find also pasta with ragù for about 5€.

Why is ragù so good?
It is prepared with the traditional recipe. It simmers on low for 6/8 hours, then it’s left alone for one night and warmed up the following day.

Sfogliatelle in Naples, Italy
Sfogliatelle and pastiere at Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle, Naples

Sfogliatelle e Pastiere Napoletane

At Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle in Via San Gregorio Armeno you will find delicious Neapolitan sfogliatelle.
Next to the traditional ones, they also sell those prepared with an ancient recipe: Croce di Lucca.
There’s no ricotta cheese inside but semolina, nuts and almonds.

The recipe was written in 1624 from nuns at the Convento della Croce in Lucca.
It was then sent to the nuns in Amalfi.

The original recipe has been found again after centuries and the Croce di Lucca is now baked and sold only at this shop in Via San Gregorio Armeno.

Here you will also find small “pastiera napoletana”, which is a cake made with pastry filled with wheat, ricotta cheese and eggs.
It’s traditionally baked for Easter but at Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle they bake them all year long!

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When Should you Visit Via San Gregorio Armeno?

The artisan shops in Via San Gregorio Armeno can be visited all year long.
That’s why people call this place “Christmas Alley”.

Yet every year in November there’s an official “opening” ceremony that launches the Christmas Season.
The Naples Christmas lights are lit and the street gets all its nice seasonal decorations.

The best time to visit Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples, according to us locals, is October and November.
December is in fact hugely crowded. It becomes impossible to even walk!

If you are visiting Naples for Christmas, you can still try to go to Christmas Alley early in the morning.
Make sure you get there as soon as the shops open, then move somewhere less crowded.

Pope Francis in a Nativity Scene
Even Pope Francis, Harry and Meghan have been added to the Neapolitan Nativity scenes!

Where to Stay in Naples

Are you looking for a place to stay in the oldest part of Naples, Italy?
The following places are all within walking distance from Via San Gregorio Armeno!

B&B Il Campanile

Luxury B&B in an historical building.
Neapolitan breakfast is included. All the places mentioned in this article are within walking distance.
Check B&B Il Campanile on Booking.

Domus Rosa

Comfy B&B with rooms designed with the traditional Neapolitan style.
Within walking distance from the Nativity workshops at Christmas Alley.
Check Domus Rosa on Booking.

The Church B&B Naples

Super cheap and cute B&B, very close to the San Gregorio Armeno Church in Naples.
Located inside a gorgeous historical building and with an instagrammable terrace.
Check The Church B&B Naples on Booking.

We also have an article full of interesting info on where to sleep in Naples!

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Travelling Dany – Danila Caputo

Danila Caputo is a bilingual travel writer living in between Naples and the Amalfi Coast (Italy), graduating from the University of Naples Suor Orsola Benincasa in Foreign Languages and Literature. She travels and works with her husband Aldo, photographer and videographer. Their blog chronicles their adventures around the world, their love for the USA (where they have family), Italian/European culture and tips on how to be responsible travelers. You can find out more about their latest trips and their life on Youtube, Instagram and Facebook.

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70 Comments

  1. First of all, like many commenters before me, I too am irritated and disappointed in the lack of professionalism from that woman slandering a place she refuses to even acquaint herself with. Even more so because not only did she have such disrespectful & ignorant opinions but that she actually deprived others from the experience to see, taste, explore and make up their own authentic opinions as well. Very disheartening to hear.

    That being said, this was an excellent read and I am so happy to have found it! I spent nearly 3 weeks in Italy just over 10 years ago – though only in the Umbria & Tuscany regions – and have been dreaming to return and see the rest of it ever since. As luck will have it, my family and I will be arriving early this November not just to visit but to *live* – and in Naples no less, or just outside it – for the next 3 years or so! We are THRILLED to have this experience and cannot wait to see and explore as much as we can. We certainly will not shy away from Naples itself based on cautionary tales … typically from those who’ve never actually been or if they have, not in this century. We like to make up our own opinions and our favorite experiences are those off the beaten path, most authentic and culturally rich … as well as anything food related! I look forward to trying all you’ve recommended here – I’m hungry just thinking about it. And I’d like to add that although there are still many speaking on the “dangers” of Naples, there seem to be MANY more singing it’s praises, that I’ve found anyway, if you’re simply curious enough to look in the first place. I’m hopeful that the dated, negative opinions will soon be seen as just that – irrealavent hearsay. I look forward to all we’ve yet to experience there and any further recommendations you can suggest, please don’t hesitate to point me in their direction!

    1. Ciao Tiffany! Let me start with a huge Benvenuta a Napoli! I’ve traveled the world and yet I’d never leave Naples. Those who know well the city, even if it has some bad sides to it, know that it sticks with you. Napoli has a way to carve its space into your heart and stays there: you can go everywhere you want but Napoli will always be with you. If we stay away for too long we start feeling the need to see our beautiful sea once again, we’re hopeless!!
      I should be used by now to the people slandering my city, because it happens often and sometimes even Italians (especially from the North) behave in a shameful way, relying on articles from ages ago that have never been rectified. Yet I can’t. It’s personal, and I feel very much offended when ignorant people think they know my city better than me, scaring people away from visiting. So thank you very much for coming here with an open mind!
      Of course you have to be careful in certain areas, but can we honestly say that we’d walk in a careless way in New York City at night? I have been there and I was careful, just like I’m careful in every other big city. Things happen, unfortunately, but it’s also up to us. You will see for yourself that Napoli is one of the most friendly, welcoming cities in Italy. We genuinely love to smile, chat, and get to know new people. And when you go to a café to have your first espresso of the day, there’s nothing better than seeing people smiling at you and talking about the weather or the recent news. 🙂
      I am sure you will have a great time! Keep checking on the blog, I have so much more to say about Naples and the surrounding areas: I LOVE my city and I really wish people could see all the amazing things we have here. Only I have such a long list of things to write that I have to admit I have fallen behind! There will be more soon, I promise!
      Oh and if you visit in November, Via San Gregorio Armeno might be a bit busy. Try to visit in the morning or in January, right after Christmas! When it’s crowded it can be definitely overwhelming! Also make sure to eat pizza a portafogli because in this ancient part of Naples not only it’s delicious but also very cheap! Please don’t hesitate to contact me if you need more information, it’ll be my pleasure to help!

  2. Hi Dany,
    Love your blog and I have to agree, it is sad that the bad reputation of Naples is all people ever hear. I’ve visited Naples in September last year (by myself) and I have to say that I’ve never felt unsafe. I even walked to my flat, in the historic center, alone after dinner each night. Even though Naples definitely is not for the feint of heart, I will most certainly visit it again as there is still so many things and places I wanted to see, but my visit was just too short.

    1. Hi Petra, thank you so much for your nice words! I’m so glad that you felt safe in Naples and that you agree with me that bad press is doing Naples such a disservice!

  3. Janine Thomas says:

    I loved visiting Naples. I was there at Easter and it was amazing. I tried to get to Christmas Alley, but the artisans were mostly at lunch and many of the shops were closes. Looking at your photos I am sure that it is a spectacular sight.

    1. Oh wow! Easter this year? I’m sorry that you couldn’t see much at Christmas Alley, but think at it this way: you have the perfect excuse to get back for more!

  4. I love the way you have portrayed your own city. It really hurts when people say bad things about your home. I am from India and I could totally understand it. People have many misconception about India too.
    Naples looks like a lovely place and I would really love to visit it if I ever been to Italy.

    1. What an awful thing, right? I’d also love to visit India one day, it looks like a colorful, beautiful country!

  5. I never knew Naples had a bad reputation, it looks beautiful. What I have learnt about travelling is that make your own perceptions about a place because what you read and told are always exaggerated. That Pizza a portafoglio… Yum yum. Enjoy your Xmas