Once upon a time, there was a long, winding road from Ortona to Gaeta, in Italy, that was used during World War II by the English and American armies. General Patton started his march in Italy from Sicily, heading North, and it took him 5 months to get a good hold of it, because of the German troops. General Kesserling was put in charge of this road that was mostly safe from air raids because it went through mountains, impenetrable valleys, rivers and rocks. This imaginary line connecting the Gaeta gulf, the Garigliano and Sangro rivers, Pescara and Cassino was called “Gustav Line“.
Every year, a group of horse riders climbs this same road, to honor the beauty of this area and all the soldiers who died here. It’s a different way to travel in Italy, looking at it through the ears of a beautiful horse. Fernando, from Crete Gialle, plans everything at least one year in advance, to make sure that horses and riders can have a safe trip. If you’re spending three of four days in Rome you can easily add a day trip to Crete Gialle, it’s easy to get there using the train!
The horses pant as they climb up the ridge on the way that goes from the Mainarde mountains to mount Marrone, one of the most difficult parts of this trip. To get up to the mountain pass, the riders have to be extremely careful to guide their horses on safe paths: no one speaks, all you can hear up there is the rustling of leaves, rocks rolling down the ridge, the wind singing its song. The silence is not only due to the difficulty of this part of the journey, but it’s a way to honor the soldiers, some as young as 16, who fought, suffered and died on this road, trying to bring peace into a world that was tortured by a horrible war.
The idea of riding along the Gustav Line started as a way not to forget what took place here, and at the same time to explore this wild part of Italy in a different, eco sustainable way. Crete Gialle, a small family ranch between Campania and Lazio in Italy, created and promoted this event a few years ago. From the 3-11 June, a good nine days on horseback, riders from all over Europe meet in Ortona to challenge themselves on this long, windy road.
Exploring the Gustav Line in Italy on horseback means that you can rediscover the relationship with your own horse, and also with nature. Even if you can’t bring yours, Crete Gialle and the Federal Guide FITETREC–ANTE, Fernando L’Arco, will make sure to find you the most suitable companion for what will be the adventure of a lifetime. It is a way to see, from up your saddle, the place where history was made, where the Allied forces fought against the Nazis for every inch of land, while the horrors continued in camps like Auschwitz and Birkenau.
The Gustav Line is never crowded: it’s you with your brothers and sisters, both two and four legged. Fernando L’Arco planned this trip for the first time four years ago. 2017 will in fact be the fourth edition of a real adventure, the first of this kind in Italy and a great chance to thank the over 300.000 soldiers who died here. The number really does make your head spin, right? I’m ashamed to say that I’m Italian and still I didn’t know much about the Gustav Line. We don’t get to study this story in our history books and that’s exactly why Crete Gialle is trying to spread the word, making sure that brave riders get the chance to explore this land, going through valleys, rivers, mountains, little burgs and military cemeteries.
As I already mentioned, the journey starts in Ortona, a Medieval town that was almost entirely destroyed during World War II: most of its population was forced to run away as the town was bombed continuously for at least six months. 1314 soldiers died here to free the city from the Nazis. The city was given a Gold Medal for Civilian Valour after the war.
The riders will then move through a beautiful valley between Chieti and the Sangro river, to another tiny town occupied by the German troops, Orsogna, and then, near the borders of the Majella National Park, on a nice hill overlooking the area, they will visit Guardiagrele, one of the most beautiful burgs in Italy. Gabriele D’Annunzio said that this town was the terrace of Abruzzo region, because from here you can look over the valley to the Adriatic sea.
Riders and horses are then guided through the Majella National Park, in the green heart of Abruzzo region, with good chances to see the wildlife living there. Horses, in fact, don’t scare away the wildlife as a car would, and they allow the guides to take scenic routes only accessible to hikers and riders. From this park the convoy will move to Roccaraso, which is one of the most famous and beautiful mountain cities in the South of Italy, a paradise for ski lovers in Winter and for those who love the quiet of nature the rest of the year.
As days go by, many of the most beautiful medieval burgs in Italy will be visited, from Acquafondata to Sant’Elia Fiumerapido, to the awesome Cassino with its Abbey. The bombing that destroyed a good part of this ancient religious building, killing soldiers and monks alike, is just another shameful mishap of the battles that took place in this area for long months.
The arrival has been set over the Garigliano river that divides the Lazio region from Campania: crossing this river, in fact, there’s the Tyrrhenian sea.
The Gustav line journey lasts 9 days. The participants will ride for about 25/30 km per day and only the 15% of the whole route will be paved. While the first two and the last two stops will be pretty easy, the rest of the trip will be a bit more difficult because of the mountain paths. That’s the reason why it’s important that the participants are a bit more experienced to take part to this long adventure.
The guide, Fernando L’Arco, can be contacted through my blog (send over mail that I will translate and forward to him) for requests or bookings in English, and to the official mail address info@cretegialle.it for those who can speak Italian.
Danila Caputo is a bilingual travel writer living in between Naples and the Amalfi Coast (Italy), graduating from the University of Naples Suor Orsola Benincasa in Foreign Languages and Literature. She travels and works with her husband Aldo, photographer and videographer. Their blog chronicles their adventures around the world, their love for the USA (where they have family), Italian/European culture and tips on how to be responsible travelers. You can find out more about their latest trips and their life on Youtube, Instagram and Facebook.
This sounds like such a fun tour! I love horseback riding. It’s a neat way to see a place. The landscapes you photographed look beautiful! Also, I’ve never ridden a horse in a town. I’d feel like I were back in time.
What an incredible adventure! I didn’t realize something like this existed in Italy and I love the detail you brought into this point about the historical context of the gustav line and the surrounding area. Definitely something I would love to do at some point 🙂
This is such an interesting trip. I’m always looking for something to do that is unique and fun. I have to admit, I’m a little afraid of horses so I’d have tow work up to being on a horse for 9 days. Great post!
Are you a horseback rider? My mom is really into riding and I did it pretty often as a kid. I think horses are so beautiful and looks like an awesome trip.
I like that tours are kept small in numbers, so the essence to commemorate the soldiers and appreciate the nature are still there. This is a great thing to do when in Italy! 🙂
What an incredible experience. I would imagine you would have to be quiet an experienced rider to handle those many days on horse back. Sounds like an incredible way to experience a part of war and Italian history.
This sounds a great idea and a wonderful/alternative way to see Italy and honour the fallen. Not sure it's for me as I'm not a massive fan of horse riding (I did it for the firs time in Brazil last year). However as a sustainable travel option and a way to see some of Italy's beautiful countryside, I think it's awesome. Thanks for sharing.
I've tried horseback riding before but I don't know if I can endure it and last that entire tour like you did! The view is amazing by the way. Such a unique way to experience Italy! 🙂
This sounds like such a fun tour! I love horseback riding. It’s a neat way to see a place. The landscapes you photographed look beautiful! Also, I’ve never ridden a horse in a town. I’d feel like I were back in time.
What a gorgeous way to see the world! Also, as a history student, I love the detailed info on the Second World War – a lovely touch for this post!
What an incredible adventure! I didn’t realize something like this existed in Italy and I love the detail you brought into this point about the historical context of the gustav line and the surrounding area. Definitely something I would love to do at some point 🙂
This is such an interesting trip. I’m always looking for something to do that is unique and fun. I have to admit, I’m a little afraid of horses so I’d have tow work up to being on a horse for 9 days. Great post!
It sounds quite a adventurous trip!!!! Riding horse for 9 days required riding skills.
This look beautiful! I love the vibe that the last photo gives – it’s so personal and it gives you so many incredible memories:)
Are you a horseback rider? My mom is really into riding and I did it pretty often as a kid. I think horses are so beautiful and looks like an awesome trip.
This looks like a really unique type of travel. Thanks for sharing
I like that tours are kept small in numbers, so the essence to commemorate the soldiers and appreciate the nature are still there. This is a great thing to do when in Italy! 🙂
What an incredible experience. I would imagine you would have to be quiet an experienced rider to handle those many days on horse back. Sounds like an incredible way to experience a part of war and Italian history.
I haven't been on a horse since my teen years but it looks like a great way to see the lush countryside!
I've never tried horseback riding yet. It looks terrifying for someone as small as me. Haha! But I would love to try one day.
This sounds a great idea and a wonderful/alternative way to see Italy and honour the fallen. Not sure it's for me as I'm not a massive fan of horse riding (I did it for the firs time in Brazil last year). However as a sustainable travel option and a way to see some of Italy's beautiful countryside, I think it's awesome. Thanks for sharing.
I've tried horseback riding before but I don't know if I can endure it and last that entire tour like you did! The view is amazing by the way. Such a unique way to experience Italy! 🙂