Via San Gregorio Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley Guide
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Christmas in Naples (Italy) is a special and unique time of the year. But there’s only one place where Christmas lasts forever. Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples is also known as “Christmas Alley”.
Let us show you the most picturesque street in Naples, through the eyes of us Neapolitans!
There’s a place in Naples where it’s Christmas every day of the year.
Via San Gregorio Armeno is one of the oldest streets in Naples. Definitely worth a visit, especially if you follow our guide!
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When people visit Naples, the sunny seaside city in Southern Italy, there are a few stops that generally are almost automatically added to every itinerary.
A day trip to Pompeii, or even an Amalfi Coast road trip, if they really want to feel the vibe of our beautiful region.
Yet there’s an ancient part of Naples that not many tourists know about.
And those who have heard of Via San Gregorio Armeno, have no idea where is it or how to go there.
If travelers are already scared about the Old Town, they might skip it because they think Naples is a dangerous city.
The good news is that you can definitely add it to your itinerary even if you are spending only one night in our hometown.
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Via San Gregorio Armeno – What Is This Place?
Via San Gregorio Armeno, also known as “Naples Christmas Alley“, is one of the oldest streets in Naples.
While in the past it was home to a temple dedicated to the Roman Goddess Ceres, by the end of the 18th century it became popular due to the Nativity scenes.
“Presepio“, the Italian name for “Nativity scene“, is a tradition we all love and cherish.
San Gregorio Armeno is the one street in Naples where our local artisans opened dozens of workshops. They hand make terracotta figurines, making sure they keep their doors open.
When tourists stop to watch the artisans at work, it is like complimenting them for what they are doing.
The curiosity not many know about is the fact that in modern times, our Nativity artisans have added… new figurines to our “presepio“.
You will in fact find ornaments and figurines resembling every popular face out there.
From celebs to politicians, to footballers and even an all time classic: Elvis!
Make sure you allocate at least 2-3 hours to visit Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples on your itinerary.
There’s a good chance you’ll spend even more time there, while buying Christmas gifts.
At least stay for lunch!
The oldest part of Naples is where you can find cheap but delicious street food and so many things to do.
Allow me show you!
10 Things To Do in Via San Gregorio Armeno
Visit Some Nativity Workshops
The San Gregorio Armeno Nativity workshops are (almost) always open.
As an unwritten rule, us Neapolitans know that the artisans generally start working at about 9:30 am.
The Christmas Alley workshops stay open until 8 pm, more or less. Yet at lunchtime it’s possible that they will be closed for a short lunch break.
You can just walk in every open door at Via San Gregorio Armeno.
If they are working they generally welcome visitors – for free.
Please be polite and do not touch anything.
Many of the items on display should be handled with the utmost care!
Go For A Christmas Shopping Spree
This narrow street in Naples is also famous for its shops.
While some travelers think they are “cute but kitch“, they’re still worth some of your time.
As you walk towards the artisan workshops at Christmas Alley, you will also find a lot of stores selling… wedding dresses.
The area surrounding Naples Cathedral (our “Duomo di Napoli“) is in fact historically famous for its seamstresses.
Many of the shops you see are tiny and family-owned. They make original wedding dresses from scratch for the Neapolitan brides-to-be.
Shopping for Italian souvenirs or Christmas presents in the area is a good idea.
Yet you can also just go for some inexpensive window shopping while you eat a delicious Pizza a Portafoglio!
Visit Museo Cappella Sansevero
Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples is within walking distance from the world-famous Museo Cappella Sansevero.
Being one of the gorgeous hidden gems in Naples people do not often get to see, I absolutely encourage you to go.
The Veiled Christ at Cappella Sansevero in Naples is one of the greatest sculptures of all time.
This impressive work of art is my favorite in Naples, and it dates back to 1753.
It is so realistic that people back then thought that the Prince of Sansevero was a powerful alchemist who turned people into stone!
Visiting the Museo Cappella Sansevero should take about 30 minutes, unless you decide to stay longer.
The museum is small but packed with gorgeous artworks!
Stroll Through “Spaccanapoli”
The first person who used this nickname was the Italian writer Benedetto Croce.
“Spaccanapoli” literally means “breaking through Naples” in Italian.
The Decumano Inferiore, one of the 3 main streets in Naples dating back to the Greek era, is now commonly known here as “Spaccanapoli“.
This is a street that actually divides Naples in two between North and South.
Spaccanapoli is full to the brim with historical buildings and gorgeous Churches you can visit.
Among the very best things you should visit there’s the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, San Domenico Maggiore and the Basilica di Santa Chiara.
They are all free to visit but you will need to cover your legs and shoulders.
Also in summer!
Drink a Real Neapolitan Coffee
Espresso in Naples is a form of art.
Us Neapolitans are quite opinionated when it comes to coffee. Our baristas have to make sure they always get us the very best cup of espresso. Every. Single. Time.
Make sure you stop by any of the pretty cafes in Naples for a “pausa caffè e sfogliatella” (coffee and sfogliatella break in Italian). You won’t regret it!
In Naples we drink coffee according to a specific ritual.
First a bit of water. Then if our barista hands us one, we eat a butter cookie or a bit of dark chocolate.
Then we finally drink our coffee.
Beware: in Naples the coffee cup is often scorching hot! We tend to believe that it enhances the scent and flavor of the espresso so pay attention not to get burned!
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Buy Neapolitan Taralli
One of the best things you can eat while walking through Via San Gregorio Armeno is Neapolitan Taralli.
While back in the day it was common to eat very big taralli while drinking a cold beer, now they have become smaller and… trendy.
Leopoldo Infante, one of the very best Neapolitan chefs out there, has been making taralli since 1940.
He has now opened a Taralleria Napoletana shop in Via San Biagio dei Librai.
His shop sells small taralli that you can eat while window shopping.
They’re cheap, crunchy and savory!
The best thing?
They make a great souvenir box that you can bring home!
Take Pictures of the “Maradona Altar”
You absolutely can’t visit Naples without noticing how Diego Armando Maradona has become part of our culture.
The epic soccer player’s face is on murals and even tiny, homemade museums throughout the city.
Yet there’s one tiny cafe at Piazzetta Nilo, that has dedicated an “altar” to Maradona.
In a glass case they keep a hair that is supposed to belong to Diego!
Throughout Via San Gregorio Armeno you will find a lot of artisan shops keeping Maradona’s memorabilia as lucky charms.
There are framed newspapers, autographs or even old t-shirts of the S.S.C. Napoli.
Make sure you drop by the Bar Nilo and take a few pictures of the tiny altar.
It’s one of the unique things you’ll only ever find in Naples!
Visit Naples Duomo
The Naples Cathedral, that we know as “Duomo di Napoli” is the very first thing you will see while walking towards Christmas Alley.
The majestic Roman Catholic Cathedral is the main church in Naples and the seat of the Archbishop in Naples.
You might have heard of this place because this cathedral houses a vial of the blood of San Gennaro (Saint Januarius). Three times a year it is brought out and it liquefies. In Italy we know of this phenomenon as the “Miracolo di San Gennaro“.
The Neapolitans believe that it’s a way for San Gennaro to protect the city.
Should the blood not liquefy, a disaster will befall Naples!
You can visit the main Duomo building for free.
Yet if you have enough time, I suggest you pay to enter the Cappella del Tesoro (Treasure Chapel), which is the place where they keep the San Gennaro treasure.
It’s impressive!
Shop for Books at Via San Biagio Dei Librai
After you’ve done all your Christmas shopping at Via San Gregorio Armeno, keep walking for a few minutes.
You’ll get to Via San Biagio dei Librai.
This unique place in Naples is famous because it’s a narrow street where they almost exclusively sell books.
Hence why the name “dei Librai“, which is the Italian word for “bookseller“.
Via San Biagio dei Librai is also very popular because here, in 1658, at number 131, the philosopher GianBattista Vico was born.
Stuff Your Face With The Best Street Food
The good Neapolitan street food has to be cheap, delicious and filling.
While there are so many things you should eat in Naples, the area surrounding Via San Gregorio Armeno is where you’ll find the cheapest street food ever.
Pizza a Portafoglio, a traditional “to-go-pizza” that you can translate as “wallet pizza“, still costs like 2€ (a bit more than 2$).
It is served piping hot and dripping tomato sauce. Yum!
Make sure that you spend some time just picking delicious food and eat at Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Not only it will be cheaper, but it’s also a great way to discover the authentic Neapolitan cuisine!
How to get to Via San Gregorio Armeno
Naples is a pretty ancient city.
The historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, includes the Decumani, three roads built in the VI century b. C.
They are the Decumano superiore, the Decumano maggiore and the Decumano inferiore.
Via San Gregorio Armeno connects the Decumano maggiore (Via dei Tribunali) and the Decumano inferiore (Via San Biagio dei Librai).
If you are at Piazza Garibaldi, near the Central Station, use the Naples Art Metro to get to Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Use Linea 1. There are 3 metro stops within walking distance from the Nativity Scenes workshops.
Museo, Dante and Università.
Click to watch our walking itinerary for Via San Gregorio Armeno (Naples) on Youtube!
Do You Need a Car To Visit Naples?
As a Neapolitan, let me be super clear: by all means, nope!
Exploring Naples by foot or using public transport is super easy.
Getting a car means having to deal with a lot of traffic, lack of parking, fines and drivers who do not respect the rules.
Being a local, I tend to use the subway more than the buses.
I can get everywhere quickly, while buses are often delayed by huge traffic jams.
The easiest way to deal with public transport in Naples is by buying a daily ticket TIC Napoli Urbano Giornaliero.
It’s a ticket you can use for the whole day in Naples. It’ll cost you 4,50€ (about 5$).
In case you’re staying longer there’s a TIC Napoli Urbano Settimanale which is valid for 7 days, at 16€ (about 17$).
If you still prefer to rent a car, maybe to plan a few day trips from Naples, make sure you do so well in advance.
Renting online is safer and it will be way cheaper.
Click here to confront prices online.
What to Eat at Christmas Alley in Naples
In Naples we have a way to turn even the most elaborate Italian dishes into yummy street food.
This is particularly true in Via San Gregorio Armeno!
Remember to go there when you are hungry. With just a few Euros you will be able to buy the most traditional and delicious food, off the beaten path and away from the tourist traps.
Pizza “a Portafoglio” (“Wallet” Pizza)
Us Neapolitans love it.
We consider it the ultimate street food in Naples.
The scent alone will make you super hungry!
Pizza a portafoglio is a smaller Pizza Margherita (tomatoes, basil, olive oil and mozzarella cheese) cooked in a wood-fired oven.
Once cooked the pizza maker bends it in the middle, then bends it again, just like you’d do with a wallet.
It’s an iconic street food in Naples that you can buy in Via San Gregorio Armeno and the Decumani area (also in other places of course, but here you will spend only 2€!).
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Neapolitan “cuoppo”
Cuoppo in Naples is a paper cone filled with delicious deep fried food.
There are several shops that sell them both in Via San Gregorio Armeno and the Decumani area.
The price changes according to what you want to buy.
There are cuoppi filled with deep fried pizza dough and Nutella, fish cuoppo (with deep fried shrimps and anchovies), or even just French fries with wurstel.
Neapolitan Taralli
Taralli are a staple of the street food in Naples.
At Taralleria Napoletana, which I mentioned above, you can also find a lot of vegan options.
Neapolitan Taralli are savory cookies made with lard, almonds and ground pepper.
The “modern” ones even add Neapolitan friarielli or other goodies.
Taralli are very cheap snacks you can eat easily while walking.
Cuzzetiello con Ragù
If you are very hungry and you want to taste a piece of the traditional Neapolitan cuisine, you can stop at Tandem d’Asporto in Via Mezzocannone 75.
This shop is entirely dedicated to the tomato sauce that is the symbol of Naples in the world: ragù.
They make something that generations of grandmothers and mothers here have prepared for their grandkids or children. Bread with ragù, or, as we say it in Naples “Cuzzetiello con ragù”.
It’s the bottom end of a Neapolitan loaf of bread.
We remove the soft inside and we fill it with warm ragù and sometimes with homemade polpette (meatballs).
With only 5€ (about 6$) you can eat this delicious street food. Beware: it’s hot and filling!
Tandem owns several restaurants and to go shops in Naples, and all of them are specialized in dishes with ragù.
At Tandem d’Asporto you will thus find also pasta with ragù for about 5€.
Why is ragù so good?
It is prepared with the traditional recipe. It simmers on low for 6/8 hours, then it’s left alone for one night and warmed up the following day.
Sfogliatelle e Pastiere Napoletane
At Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle in Via San Gregorio Armeno you will find delicious Neapolitan sfogliatelle.
Next to the traditional ones, they also sell those prepared with an ancient recipe: Croce di Lucca.
There’s no ricotta cheese inside but semolina, nuts and almonds.
The recipe was written in 1624 from nuns at the Convento della Croce in Lucca.
It was then sent to the nuns in Amalfi.
The original recipe has been found again after centuries and the Croce di Lucca is now baked and sold only at this shop in Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Here you will also find small “pastiera napoletana”, which is a cake made with pastry filled with wheat, ricotta cheese and eggs.
It’s traditionally baked for Easter but at Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle they bake them all year long!
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When Should you Visit Via San Gregorio Armeno?
The artisan shops in Via San Gregorio Armeno can be visited all year long.
That’s why people call this place “Christmas Alley”.
Yet every year in November there’s an official “opening” ceremony that launches the Christmas Season.
The Naples Christmas lights are lit and the street gets all its nice seasonal decorations.
The best time to visit Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples, according to us locals, is October and November.
December is in fact hugely crowded. It becomes impossible to even walk!
If you are visiting Naples for Christmas, you can still try to go to Christmas Alley early in the morning.
Make sure you get there as soon as the shops open, then move somewhere less crowded.
Where to Stay in Naples
Are you looking for a place to stay in the oldest part of Naples, Italy?
The following places are all within walking distance from Via San Gregorio Armeno!
B&B Il Campanile
Luxury B&B in an historical building.
Neapolitan breakfast is included. All the places mentioned in this article are within walking distance.
Check B&B Il Campanile on Booking.
Domus Rosa
Comfy B&B with rooms designed with the traditional Neapolitan style.
Within walking distance from the Nativity workshops at Christmas Alley.
Check Domus Rosa on Booking.
The Church B&B Naples
Super cheap and cute B&B, very close to the San Gregorio Armeno Church in Naples.
Located inside a gorgeous historical building and with an instagrammable terrace.
Check The Church B&B Naples on Booking.
We also have an article full of interesting info on where to sleep in Naples!
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Travelling Dany – Danila Caputo
Danila Caputo is a bilingual travel writer living in between Naples and the Amalfi Coast (Italy), graduating from the University of Naples Suor Orsola Benincasa in Foreign Languages and Literature. She travels and works with her husband Aldo, photographer and videographer. Their blog chronicles their adventures around the world, their love for the USA (where they have family), Italian/European culture and tips on how to be responsible travelers. You can find out more about their latest trips and their life on Youtube, Instagram and Facebook.
I loooove the look of this Christmas Alley, I absolutely need to visit it myself. As for that journalist, it serves her right that she will miss the wonders of Naples out of misguided fear and stereotypes, but not at all cool to scare other people off too. She’ll no doubt write about it having not even visited, and reinforce those same stereotypes. Of course some places in the world have a little higher crime rate, I don’t know if that’s even true any more of Naples, but even if so, one can enjoy a safe visit (as thousands and thousands do) by simply being sensible during one’s visit!!!!!
I think you’re right Kavita! That’s what being street smart is!!!
Having been to Naples I am stunned at such stereotypes that people have! Robbers , rapists? I mean I was roaming on the streets of Naples ( I had heard of thefts in Europe so I was obviously a little wary) but to paint such a picture is absolutely awful. K loved Naples, it’s graffiti , it’s food and the summer sun! But I feel so so terrible I didn’t visit Via San Gregorio Armeno! Gosh I need to go back again. What comprehensive information you have provided. Bookmarking this ! Thanks so mb for sharing so much info of the place:)
I’m so glad you had a good experience in Naples! I’m always wary of the places I don’t know but I think it’s part of being street smart, especially if you are traveling solo! I think it’s a wise thing to do, honestly! And I hope you can get back to Naples, after all… a good neapolitan pizza is always a good idea, right? 😀
I was in Naples 5 years ago and didn’t hear about San Gregorio Armeno then, Christmas every day of the year sounds fantastic and I wish I’d known then, I would’ve definitely tried to find my way to it. I did think the city was dirty at the time but it didn’t bother me all that much. We didn’t however spend a night in Naples, we took a ferry to Capri island and onwards to Pompeii. This is an interesting read!
Via San Gregorio Armeno is definitely a must go to. If you get back I hope you can spend more time in Naples. 🙂
So much to see and experience in Naples! Every place has its shortcomings and as a traveler I would like to focus more on the positives and share with all. 🙂
I was surprised about the fan worship of Maradona there. I also adore him. Naples got placed higher in my wishlist now.
Wow! Where are you from Indrani? Maradona here is definitely some kind of god, every Neapolitan knows everything about him! 😀
Oh this looks like fun. Thanks for the tip that they officially open November, that sounds like the best time to go. Those statues are amazing…and rather trippy.
Definitely the best period to avoid the Christmas crowds!
Thanks for sharing. I hadn’t heard much negativity about Naples but it is sad to me how certain places can become no-go zones for travellers and tourists because of misinformation. Naples looks like a beautiful city. Thank you for sharing all of this information and the nice photos – I have not heard of tarrali before, but they look kind of like bagels to me.
It’s something that drives me insane: I can’t stand how some people speak lies without even knowing what they’re talking about! As for taralli, they’re crunchy and very tasty, way smaller than bagels, but they have the same shape!
For my return to italy, the south is hopefully the major destination and this includes a side trip to Naples. I will admit I know nothing of Via San Gregorio but I am sure Darcee would love exploring the markets….she loves Christmas and an entire alley devoted to it would get me some major bonus points!
Definitely go over there because it’s such an ancient part of Naples and as a local I can tell you that it’s one of the parts of my city that really embodies everything that is Naples!
Definitely saving this one! I haven’t heard of it before so if I ever get to Naples, I need to check it out! Thanks for sharing 🙂
I’m glad you found it useful. 🙂
two things –
1) It’s so annoying that people write these types of things without actually visiting. I’ve been told countless times that India, Malaysia, etc are too dangerous to visit, and when I respond with …um have you even been there? The answer is almost a resounding, NO! The world can certainly be a dangerous place – but that’s everywhere. I can get mugged in my “safe”‘ hometown….safety is a myth and this type of “journalism” just prevents people from exploring and adventuring out into the world. It’s always good to use common sense and street safety, though.
and 2. OMG I want to try “wallet pizza” – sounds amazing, lol!
I couldn’t agree more with you! It’s offensive and very rude to behave like that. I always try to visit new places with an open mind and to tell people exactly how I felt, with the outmost sincerity. Sometimes a few days aren’t even enough to just form a clear opinion. Spreading lies when you haven’t even visited a place is very unprofessional. And yes again, this kind of “journalists” tend to scare people away because their readers won’t have no reason not to believe them. How sad. I thought there was some kind of professionalism!
I’m so glad I read this post. We go to Italy frequently and have always been told stay away from Naples. Sad. But you have changed my outlook, we will check this out next time we go!
Aw that’s too bad Sherrie! Can I ask you who told you to stay away from Naples? I can’t believe the hate some people still throw at us!
This is amazing! Haha. Very unique compared to the run-of-the-mill European Christmas markets! I love your photos, and the idea of just throwing everything together; traditional nativities with Trump and Kim Jong Un next to them?? Hahaha.
It’s good that you want to change people’s perspectives too. I hate scaremongering! I studied journalism and that was actually one thing that really put me off the industry.
It’s a bit weird if you think about it, seeing Trump and Kim Jong Un next to sacred figures! 😀 Sometimes people get thrown off by this kind of mix, but we’re used to it!
And woah so you got burned too by that field, ouch! I’m so sorry about that! And even the more so that it seems to be so common to just throw your personal opinion into everything, especially if your opinion is plain racist too!
It is such a shame that the lady you met was trying to scaremonger females into not going to Naples. I have been to Naples many times over the last 12 years and you just have to be careful, like in any big city! I need to go back now for the Christmas markets and some of the food suggestions you gave, as they look yummy!
That’s awesome Lucy! What parts of Naples did you like the most? Oh and you can visit San Gregorio Armeno whenever you want, it’s always open, only you won’t see the fancy lights if you visit in the summer!
Thanks for sharing! Oh my gosh the pizza! Ive been craving it since I read eat pray love! Thanks for the tips about safety. I wonder if you can carry your laptop around or camera in places like this. This was a lovely informative article!
We’ve been filming and shooting in the area with no problem at all. I think you have to be careful as you would in every big city, really.
This is why bloggers are the best source of information rather than national newspapers! All cities have their crime issues, and their dodgy areas, but it doesn’t mean they should be crossed off travellers lists! You have given several wonderful reasons why we should visit Naples, chiefly Christmas all year round and delicious street food!
Oh YES! This is so true! I always try to be completely honest, sometimes our opinions might not make everyone happy, but I only express them after seeing a place. Also sometimes a few days or weeks aren’t even enough to understand the complexity of an area, so… imagine how mad I was when she started spreading lies without having been in Naples at all!
Strangely enough I haven’t heard such bad words about Naples, only the good ones! Phew, how bad it is to make stereotypical assumptions and coming from people in media & travel industry even worse. I feel you, coming from India, I meet people asking questions about safety a lot, but c’mon there are people living here safely!! Crime is almost everywhere but that doesn’t mean the country/place is not working towards it. Love this post, keenly added this to my bucket list 🙂 btw those little presepe are awesome <3
I’m so glad to know that you haven’t heard the hateful lies about my city! But it’s still very offensive to read such fake assumptions, you’re right. I can understand just asking to a local, that is absolutely normal and right: after all, if you’ve read so much about an area, it’s right to ask to someone who lives there. But it’s definitely not normal to go and spread lies just because you’re unprofessional, right?
I hope you can make it to Naples, and know that India has been on my bucket list forever!