Via San Gregorio Armeno – Naples Christmas Alley Guide
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Christmas in Naples (Italy) is a special and unique time of the year. But there’s only one place where Christmas lasts forever. Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples is also known as “Christmas Alley”.
Let us show you the most picturesque street in Naples, through the eyes of us Neapolitans!
There’s a place in Naples where it’s Christmas every day of the year.
Via San Gregorio Armeno is one of the oldest streets in Naples. Definitely worth a visit, especially if you follow our guide!
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When people visit Naples, the sunny seaside city in Southern Italy, there are a few stops that generally are almost automatically added to every itinerary.
A day trip to Pompeii, or even an Amalfi Coast road trip, if they really want to feel the vibe of our beautiful region.
Yet there’s an ancient part of Naples that not many tourists know about.
And those who have heard of Via San Gregorio Armeno, have no idea where is it or how to go there.
If travelers are already scared about the Old Town, they might skip it because they think Naples is a dangerous city.
The good news is that you can definitely add it to your itinerary even if you are spending only one night in our hometown.
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Via San Gregorio Armeno – What Is This Place?
Via San Gregorio Armeno, also known as “Naples Christmas Alley“, is one of the oldest streets in Naples.
While in the past it was home to a temple dedicated to the Roman Goddess Ceres, by the end of the 18th century it became popular due to the Nativity scenes.
“Presepio“, the Italian name for “Nativity scene“, is a tradition we all love and cherish.
San Gregorio Armeno is the one street in Naples where our local artisans opened dozens of workshops. They hand make terracotta figurines, making sure they keep their doors open.
When tourists stop to watch the artisans at work, it is like complimenting them for what they are doing.
The curiosity not many know about is the fact that in modern times, our Nativity artisans have added… new figurines to our “presepio“.
You will in fact find ornaments and figurines resembling every popular face out there.
From celebs to politicians, to footballers and even an all time classic: Elvis!
Make sure you allocate at least 2-3 hours to visit Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples on your itinerary.
There’s a good chance you’ll spend even more time there, while buying Christmas gifts.
At least stay for lunch!
The oldest part of Naples is where you can find cheap but delicious street food and so many things to do.
Allow me show you!
10 Things To Do in Via San Gregorio Armeno
Visit Some Nativity Workshops
The San Gregorio Armeno Nativity workshops are (almost) always open.
As an unwritten rule, us Neapolitans know that the artisans generally start working at about 9:30 am.
The Christmas Alley workshops stay open until 8 pm, more or less. Yet at lunchtime it’s possible that they will be closed for a short lunch break.
You can just walk in every open door at Via San Gregorio Armeno.
If they are working they generally welcome visitors – for free.
Please be polite and do not touch anything.
Many of the items on display should be handled with the utmost care!
Go For A Christmas Shopping Spree
This narrow street in Naples is also famous for its shops.
While some travelers think they are “cute but kitch“, they’re still worth some of your time.
As you walk towards the artisan workshops at Christmas Alley, you will also find a lot of stores selling… wedding dresses.
The area surrounding Naples Cathedral (our “Duomo di Napoli“) is in fact historically famous for its seamstresses.
Many of the shops you see are tiny and family-owned. They make original wedding dresses from scratch for the Neapolitan brides-to-be.
Shopping for Italian souvenirs or Christmas presents in the area is a good idea.
Yet you can also just go for some inexpensive window shopping while you eat a delicious Pizza a Portafoglio!
Visit Museo Cappella Sansevero
Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples is within walking distance from the world-famous Museo Cappella Sansevero.
Being one of the gorgeous hidden gems in Naples people do not often get to see, I absolutely encourage you to go.
The Veiled Christ at Cappella Sansevero in Naples is one of the greatest sculptures of all time.
This impressive work of art is my favorite in Naples, and it dates back to 1753.
It is so realistic that people back then thought that the Prince of Sansevero was a powerful alchemist who turned people into stone!
Visiting the Museo Cappella Sansevero should take about 30 minutes, unless you decide to stay longer.
The museum is small but packed with gorgeous artworks!
Stroll Through “Spaccanapoli”
The first person who used this nickname was the Italian writer Benedetto Croce.
“Spaccanapoli” literally means “breaking through Naples” in Italian.
The Decumano Inferiore, one of the 3 main streets in Naples dating back to the Greek era, is now commonly known here as “Spaccanapoli“.
This is a street that actually divides Naples in two between North and South.
Spaccanapoli is full to the brim with historical buildings and gorgeous Churches you can visit.
Among the very best things you should visit there’s the Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, San Domenico Maggiore and the Basilica di Santa Chiara.
They are all free to visit but you will need to cover your legs and shoulders.
Also in summer!
Drink a Real Neapolitan Coffee
Espresso in Naples is a form of art.
Us Neapolitans are quite opinionated when it comes to coffee. Our baristas have to make sure they always get us the very best cup of espresso. Every. Single. Time.
Make sure you stop by any of the pretty cafes in Naples for a “pausa caffè e sfogliatella” (coffee and sfogliatella break in Italian). You won’t regret it!
In Naples we drink coffee according to a specific ritual.
First a bit of water. Then if our barista hands us one, we eat a butter cookie or a bit of dark chocolate.
Then we finally drink our coffee.
Beware: in Naples the coffee cup is often scorching hot! We tend to believe that it enhances the scent and flavor of the espresso so pay attention not to get burned!
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Buy Neapolitan Taralli
One of the best things you can eat while walking through Via San Gregorio Armeno is Neapolitan Taralli.
While back in the day it was common to eat very big taralli while drinking a cold beer, now they have become smaller and… trendy.
Leopoldo Infante, one of the very best Neapolitan chefs out there, has been making taralli since 1940.
He has now opened a Taralleria Napoletana shop in Via San Biagio dei Librai.
His shop sells small taralli that you can eat while window shopping.
They’re cheap, crunchy and savory!
The best thing?
They make a great souvenir box that you can bring home!
Take Pictures of the “Maradona Altar”
You absolutely can’t visit Naples without noticing how Diego Armando Maradona has become part of our culture.
The epic soccer player’s face is on murals and even tiny, homemade museums throughout the city.
Yet there’s one tiny cafe at Piazzetta Nilo, that has dedicated an “altar” to Maradona.
In a glass case they keep a hair that is supposed to belong to Diego!
Throughout Via San Gregorio Armeno you will find a lot of artisan shops keeping Maradona’s memorabilia as lucky charms.
There are framed newspapers, autographs or even old t-shirts of the S.S.C. Napoli.
Make sure you drop by the Bar Nilo and take a few pictures of the tiny altar.
It’s one of the unique things you’ll only ever find in Naples!
Visit Naples Duomo
The Naples Cathedral, that we know as “Duomo di Napoli” is the very first thing you will see while walking towards Christmas Alley.
The majestic Roman Catholic Cathedral is the main church in Naples and the seat of the Archbishop in Naples.
You might have heard of this place because this cathedral houses a vial of the blood of San Gennaro (Saint Januarius). Three times a year it is brought out and it liquefies. In Italy we know of this phenomenon as the “Miracolo di San Gennaro“.
The Neapolitans believe that it’s a way for San Gennaro to protect the city.
Should the blood not liquefy, a disaster will befall Naples!
You can visit the main Duomo building for free.
Yet if you have enough time, I suggest you pay to enter the Cappella del Tesoro (Treasure Chapel), which is the place where they keep the San Gennaro treasure.
It’s impressive!
Shop for Books at Via San Biagio Dei Librai
After you’ve done all your Christmas shopping at Via San Gregorio Armeno, keep walking for a few minutes.
You’ll get to Via San Biagio dei Librai.
This unique place in Naples is famous because it’s a narrow street where they almost exclusively sell books.
Hence why the name “dei Librai“, which is the Italian word for “bookseller“.
Via San Biagio dei Librai is also very popular because here, in 1658, at number 131, the philosopher GianBattista Vico was born.
Stuff Your Face With The Best Street Food
The good Neapolitan street food has to be cheap, delicious and filling.
While there are so many things you should eat in Naples, the area surrounding Via San Gregorio Armeno is where you’ll find the cheapest street food ever.
Pizza a Portafoglio, a traditional “to-go-pizza” that you can translate as “wallet pizza“, still costs like 2€ (a bit more than 2$).
It is served piping hot and dripping tomato sauce. Yum!
Make sure that you spend some time just picking delicious food and eat at Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Not only it will be cheaper, but it’s also a great way to discover the authentic Neapolitan cuisine!
How to get to Via San Gregorio Armeno
Naples is a pretty ancient city.
The historic center, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, includes the Decumani, three roads built in the VI century b. C.
They are the Decumano superiore, the Decumano maggiore and the Decumano inferiore.
Via San Gregorio Armeno connects the Decumano maggiore (Via dei Tribunali) and the Decumano inferiore (Via San Biagio dei Librai).
If you are at Piazza Garibaldi, near the Central Station, use the Naples Art Metro to get to Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Use Linea 1. There are 3 metro stops within walking distance from the Nativity Scenes workshops.
Museo, Dante and Università.
Click to watch our walking itinerary for Via San Gregorio Armeno (Naples) on Youtube!
Do You Need a Car To Visit Naples?
As a Neapolitan, let me be super clear: by all means, nope!
Exploring Naples by foot or using public transport is super easy.
Getting a car means having to deal with a lot of traffic, lack of parking, fines and drivers who do not respect the rules.
Being a local, I tend to use the subway more than the buses.
I can get everywhere quickly, while buses are often delayed by huge traffic jams.
The easiest way to deal with public transport in Naples is by buying a daily ticket TIC Napoli Urbano Giornaliero.
It’s a ticket you can use for the whole day in Naples. It’ll cost you 4,50€ (about 5$).
In case you’re staying longer there’s a TIC Napoli Urbano Settimanale which is valid for 7 days, at 16€ (about 17$).
If you still prefer to rent a car, maybe to plan a few day trips from Naples, make sure you do so well in advance.
Renting online is safer and it will be way cheaper.
Click here to confront prices online.
What to Eat at Christmas Alley in Naples
In Naples we have a way to turn even the most elaborate Italian dishes into yummy street food.
This is particularly true in Via San Gregorio Armeno!
Remember to go there when you are hungry. With just a few Euros you will be able to buy the most traditional and delicious food, off the beaten path and away from the tourist traps.
Pizza “a Portafoglio” (“Wallet” Pizza)
Us Neapolitans love it.
We consider it the ultimate street food in Naples.
The scent alone will make you super hungry!
Pizza a portafoglio is a smaller Pizza Margherita (tomatoes, basil, olive oil and mozzarella cheese) cooked in a wood-fired oven.
Once cooked the pizza maker bends it in the middle, then bends it again, just like you’d do with a wallet.
It’s an iconic street food in Naples that you can buy in Via San Gregorio Armeno and the Decumani area (also in other places of course, but here you will spend only 2€!).
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Neapolitan “cuoppo”
Cuoppo in Naples is a paper cone filled with delicious deep fried food.
There are several shops that sell them both in Via San Gregorio Armeno and the Decumani area.
The price changes according to what you want to buy.
There are cuoppi filled with deep fried pizza dough and Nutella, fish cuoppo (with deep fried shrimps and anchovies), or even just French fries with wurstel.
Neapolitan Taralli
Taralli are a staple of the street food in Naples.
At Taralleria Napoletana, which I mentioned above, you can also find a lot of vegan options.
Neapolitan Taralli are savory cookies made with lard, almonds and ground pepper.
The “modern” ones even add Neapolitan friarielli or other goodies.
Taralli are very cheap snacks you can eat easily while walking.
Cuzzetiello con Ragù
If you are very hungry and you want to taste a piece of the traditional Neapolitan cuisine, you can stop at Tandem d’Asporto in Via Mezzocannone 75.
This shop is entirely dedicated to the tomato sauce that is the symbol of Naples in the world: ragù.
They make something that generations of grandmothers and mothers here have prepared for their grandkids or children. Bread with ragù, or, as we say it in Naples “Cuzzetiello con ragù”.
It’s the bottom end of a Neapolitan loaf of bread.
We remove the soft inside and we fill it with warm ragù and sometimes with homemade polpette (meatballs).
With only 5€ (about 6$) you can eat this delicious street food. Beware: it’s hot and filling!
Tandem owns several restaurants and to go shops in Naples, and all of them are specialized in dishes with ragù.
At Tandem d’Asporto you will thus find also pasta with ragù for about 5€.
Why is ragù so good?
It is prepared with the traditional recipe. It simmers on low for 6/8 hours, then it’s left alone for one night and warmed up the following day.
Sfogliatelle e Pastiere Napoletane
At Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle in Via San Gregorio Armeno you will find delicious Neapolitan sfogliatelle.
Next to the traditional ones, they also sell those prepared with an ancient recipe: Croce di Lucca.
There’s no ricotta cheese inside but semolina, nuts and almonds.
The recipe was written in 1624 from nuns at the Convento della Croce in Lucca.
It was then sent to the nuns in Amalfi.
The original recipe has been found again after centuries and the Croce di Lucca is now baked and sold only at this shop in Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Here you will also find small “pastiera napoletana”, which is a cake made with pastry filled with wheat, ricotta cheese and eggs.
It’s traditionally baked for Easter but at Sfogliate e Sfogliatelle they bake them all year long!
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When Should you Visit Via San Gregorio Armeno?
The artisan shops in Via San Gregorio Armeno can be visited all year long.
That’s why people call this place “Christmas Alley”.
Yet every year in November there’s an official “opening” ceremony that launches the Christmas Season.
The Naples Christmas lights are lit and the street gets all its nice seasonal decorations.
The best time to visit Via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples, according to us locals, is October and November.
December is in fact hugely crowded. It becomes impossible to even walk!
If you are visiting Naples for Christmas, you can still try to go to Christmas Alley early in the morning.
Make sure you get there as soon as the shops open, then move somewhere less crowded.
Where to Stay in Naples
Are you looking for a place to stay in the oldest part of Naples, Italy?
The following places are all within walking distance from Via San Gregorio Armeno!
B&B Il Campanile
Luxury B&B in an historical building.
Neapolitan breakfast is included. All the places mentioned in this article are within walking distance.
Check B&B Il Campanile on Booking.
Domus Rosa
Comfy B&B with rooms designed with the traditional Neapolitan style.
Within walking distance from the Nativity workshops at Christmas Alley.
Check Domus Rosa on Booking.
The Church B&B Naples
Super cheap and cute B&B, very close to the San Gregorio Armeno Church in Naples.
Located inside a gorgeous historical building and with an instagrammable terrace.
Check The Church B&B Naples on Booking.
We also have an article full of interesting info on where to sleep in Naples!
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Travelling Dany – Danila Caputo
Danila Caputo is a bilingual travel writer living in between Naples and the Amalfi Coast (Italy), graduating from the University of Naples Suor Orsola Benincasa in Foreign Languages and Literature. She travels and works with her husband Aldo, photographer and videographer. Their blog chronicles their adventures around the world, their love for the USA (where they have family), Italian/European culture and tips on how to be responsible travelers. You can find out more about their latest trips and their life on Youtube, Instagram and Facebook.
It’s a shame that these places get a bad reputation. Naples seems like a cool place. I am the same with Albania where I have been living for 4 months. It has such a bad reputation too but truly is a beautiful part of the world. Great post!
Wow you’re living in Albania! I’ve read wonderful things about the unspoilt nature over there! How is it? Are you liking the experience?
Via San Gregorio Armeno is indeed a revelation. I was not aware of this place and reading your post has piqued my interest. The Christmas Stree sounds straight out of this world. The Wallet Pizza is something I would love to have. A place full of surprises and promises, that is what Via San Gregorio Armeno looks like to me.
It is, being in the heart of the historical Naples, not many people are aware!
I feel that every city has some or other issues and one needs to be smarter while traveler. Check your surroundings and wear stuff accordingly is the best Mantra. The street pizza looks so yummy and it left me completely hungry. I can feel the love you have for Naples and the emotions with which this post is written. It is beautiful. We Would love to visit Naples for sure in future.
Yes, that’s a great point: dressing up accordingly is a must! Let me know if you visit Naples, we can definitely get a coffee 🙂
ROFL those figures in the Christmas alley video! I’ve never seen a glass encased nativity scene before. Love your street scene – the colors of the building really pop. Looks like a cool place. Adding to my list, those Neapolitan taralli look delicious.
The glass encased nativity scenes are typical of via San Gregorio Armeno! If you buy those made in plastic they can be cheap, otherwise I’ve seen small ones sell from 50€ up: they’re awesome, but not for every pocket!
I totally agree with u over the criminality thing.. Its stupid to just believe that every place is dangerous.. It all depends upon how street smart ur & also on luck.. I hope to visit Italy soon
Yes exactly!! I’ll keep my fingers crossed for you!
I am pleased that you are able to speak as an ambassador for your city. With your words, the negative things said about Naples by journalists will be soon forgotten. The Via San Gregorio Armeno looks like a very amusing place to spend some time. The artisans spend so much time on their work and deserve the attention you are giving them. We love to find special places like this on our travels that represent the flavor and culture of a city.
I hope so! And I firmly believe that it’s our duty to support the local culture!
I’ve never heard of Christmas Alley, this is so cool! And I can’t believe that journalist wouldn’t even get off the boat in Naples, what a load of ****. I hate it when people make assumptions about places they have never been, and won’t even consider another opinion. And for a journalist that is disgraceful. Anyway, I would love to go to Naples, for the food & Christmas Alley if nothing else!!
She even tried to convince other girls that it wasn’t safe to disembark in Naples. And actually just the other evening I was talking to a bunch of Italian journalists who made offensive assumptions about Naples, too. I’m SO disappointed and sincerely offended at the ignorance of some people. 🙁
You got me intrigued by all the wonderful street food options in Naples. I’ve only heard positive things about Naples and your article really makes me want to visit this seaside town. Amazing pictures and very informative. Thanks for sharing the local perspective.
I have a whole post about the typical food in Naples and where the locals eat, if you’re interested! 🙂
I have a friend who runs trips in Naples and he’s never mentioned anyone saying a bad thing about it. I’ve heard other cities in Italy get a bad wrap with this kind of stuff though. It’s a shame – hopefully people make informed decisions and visit these destinations. San Gregorio Armeno looks like a real treat – thanks for sharing.
Really? That’s awesome, who is he?
As for the rest, you’ll just have to scroll down to notice that people have indeed heard the bad rumors. 🙁 Unfortunately it’s very hard to get over a bad reputation.
Thank you for this. It is well written, informative, the pictures are fantastic.
Most of all I love your passion for the city. I must admit that i visited Naples 10 years ago when I had just started travelling and I did not like it for the reasons above
Now I feel I am an experienced traveller, and I think I would like it a lot more: I would use your website as a reference point.
You’d be surprised at how much a city can change in 10 years 🙂
When I thought of Naples – it always meant a place to have a good Pizza. Thanks for introducing me to the art of Presepe. It seems something unique to Naples. From now on, this is going to be my reason to visit Naples. Christmas Alley also looks wonderful.
I agree a lot of journalists do not go beyond cliches, most avoid dirtying their hands and would rather do stories sitting on their desks. Hope, we bloggers maintain our sanity and do not fall into the same trap.
We do have presepe in Italy but via San Gregorio Armeno in Naples is the only place where artisans still craft the presepe with the old techniques!
I love the city. I lived in New York for many years and was born in Washington, DC (which for a time was literally the murder capital of the US). I know to be careful everywhere but it doesn’t stop me from traveling.
Italy is my #1 dream destination, so I wouldn’t hesitate to go to Naples. I need to try the food in every region. Lol. Thanks for featuring this unique area.
It’s awesome to read someone with such an open mind Carla! And I hope you can make it here, if you do manage to travel to Naples, do let me know!
I love the idea of Christmas every day of the year! San Gregorio Armeno sounds like a magical destination! I spent 5 days in Naples around 10 years ago now, and you’re right, I did the day trips like Pompeii and the Amalfi, and didn’t hear of Via San Gregorio Armeno.
Will definitely make sure to visit on our next trip though! Sad that of everyone, it was a journalist you encountered who was pushing such negative stereotypes – surely out media are those among society who need to be keeping a grounded and open mind. It was definitely a rough city when I visited (and we did get scammed, though through our own stupidity more than anything!!) though as a solo female backpacker I felt very safe. Glad to hear though that it’s changed in the past 10 years.
Thanks for the tips on visiting Via San Gregorio Armeno – it sounds like there’s a lot of history on top of the interesting fares you can pick up at the markets. And would be all over the street food scene!
Thanks for the tip on visiting in the morning – happy to avoid huge crowds of tourists if I can! Hope to travel soon 🙂
You’d be surprised, Naples has changed a lot and I’m proud of all the progress, the state of the city and the fact that we’re finally learning how to properly take care of what we have!
I’m so sorry you got scammed tho 🙁
It’s a shame Naples can’t seem to shake a bad reputation. The Via San Gregorio seems such a weird mix of things but I love the idea of a year round Christmas alley!
I’m hoping that as more and more travelers and bloggers share their experience, the bad reputation will go away!
Wonderful post! I have never heard the cliche of the city being dangerous for women, so it ocmes as a surprise to me. the christmas alley looks amazing and the food options seem to be top notch! interesting little cultural references in their figurines too.
Apparently for that journalist it was a thing. Which felt… so out of place: I never felt unsafe in walking alone in Naples!